S.T.A.R.
adoption programme
STAR CLAWbie
The STAR adoption programme's content and resources have been gathered to help our CLAWbie adoptive parents to effectively teach good habits, life skills and socially acceptable behaviours whilst also maximising the potential for developing a loyal, trusting and lasting bond between themselves and their CLAWbie. This programme addition hopes to help educate the CLAWbie adopter to set the CLAWbie up for future success by both instilling a useful set of life skills (and adaptive coping mechanisms) as well as maximising opportunities for socialisation (with other dogs, humans and other living beings that the CLAWbie is likely to encounter in his/her post-adoption life).
This programme will help to ensure that CLAWbies become STARs and learn the life skills and coping mechanisms to adapt from institutional shelter life to a warm loving family home where (s)he can become a cherished member of the family.
Our goal remains, not only to get our CLAWbies adopted, but to make sure they stay adopted and become true doggy adoption ambassadors!
They say with children, the greatest gifts a parent (or educator) can give a child, are “Roots and Wings”. Roots so they develop a sense of belonging and self, and wings so they can explore the world and find their own place in it. They need to rely on their roots (a sense of belonging and self confidence, plus the solid foundation of education) to set them up with the confidence to fly! In the same way, training and socialisation gives our CLAWbies the roots to ground them. (By giving them a sense of belonging and self worth we nurture their capacity for trust and ability to learn fail safe social skills and life skills) BUT more than that, our STAR training also provides them with wings that make them adaptable. Wings provide the ability to soar, the flexibility and versatility to cope with different stimuli in different environments and face new social encounters or scenarios. Only a well-grounded CLAWbie (with roots) will become a well-rounded pet with wings!!!
The CLAWbie who is a STAR is :
SOCIABLE - gets along with other animals and humans and is confident in most situations.
TRAINED - behaves appropriately both at home and in public and enjoys learning and interacting with their owner.
ATTENTIVE: the CLAWbie is aware of his/her owner and adapts well to different environments
RELAXED: is calm, friendly and alert.
Sociable: the sociable CLAWbie needs to get along with humans and be confident in most situations If you have adopted a CLAW puppy you are fortunate in that you have the critical developmental period of puppyhood for socialisation if you're adopting an older CLAWbie, effective communication and non-threatening social interactions will be essential to maximise your CLAWbie's potential for sociability...
The Socialisation Stage (between 3 weeks and 4 months of age) is the formative developmental period in Puppyhood when critical social and life skills are learnt. Early socialisation and positive training experiences and teaching life skills during this formative period will empower CLAWbies and set them up for life. As adopters of CLAW pups we have the responsibility of not just catering for their basic physical needs and giving them a cuddle, but for ensuring their longterm resilience, confidence and emotional well-being! Adoptive parents need to take an active role in shaping the CLAWbie's early development and emotional well-being, by exposing the pups to a multitude of good experiences and pleasurable opportunities for socialisation. The adoptive parent should acknowledge that puppies between the age of 3 weeks and 4 months of age) are most receptive to learning and socialisation and that if we ignore this golden opPAWtunity for growth, we do so at the the CLAWbie's peril. From 6 months of age puppies are less receptive to acclimating easily to new stimuli and situations and tend to become more wary and more likely to react with nervousness or anxiety.
It is possible to teach an old dog new tricks - but behaviour modification or rehabilitation is a time consuming and expensive task! Surely it makes more sense, to just teach good manners and acceptable behaviours, right from the beginning! It is however NEVER too late to start, and often we do not know the CLAWbie's background and developmental history but the goal of adoptive parents has to be to teach fundamentally important life skills, and help our CLAWbies retain (if they have been surrendered from a home where they've already been socialised) or learn acceptable ways of interacting and socialising with humans and other species (especially other pets and domestic animals). Most of the CLAWbies surrendered, rescued or confiscated out of townships have generally had more opportunities for socialisation ... "it takes a village to raise a child" is perhaps equally applicable to many of our township rescues. The training will have been informal, the training methods intuitive and most socialisation will have been vicarious, and just happened as a part of daily life. As such many CLAWbies are perhaps better-adjusted than dogs reared in comparative isolation - behind high walls and electric fencing.
When adopting an older CLAWbie, adoptive parents need to be fair and realistic in their expectations, both of themselves and of the CLAWbie. Sociability is not an "inborn canine trait" and much of it is learned in puppyhood. A dog who has spent life on a chokechain or incarcerated in a courtyard will be far less social than a dog who has been roaming free in the streets with the local dogs and kids and scavenging and begging scraps from passersby... CLAW will not (knowingly) rehome an aggressive, antisocial or unstable dog. The CLAW enclosures are communal (containing several dogs), and many people and especially children from the surrounding townships visit and interact with and walk the CLAWbies so aggressive and antosocial dogs have to be humanely euthenased. (it is unfair to subject either the unstable, antisocial dog OR the other shelter dogs, staff and visitors to a potentially life threatening fight or bite).
As a parent,and guardian, effective communication is paramount - not only do you need to be an advocate and speak up FOR your CLAWbie, but you also need to be able to effectively hear your CLAWbie. Learning about effective communication will (for you and your family) help you understand (and communicate) with your own pets and strange ones. (This knowledge is fundamental to educating kids about how to appraoch dogs and part of the Anti-Bite campaign). Learn more about learning to SPEAK DOG?
It is important not to overwhelm the newly adopted CLAWBie with social encounters which can be stressful. The adoptive parent needs to be an advocate for the new CLAWbie and give him/her the time and space to settle in without being bombarded (either by all the family members or all the family pets). Introductions to existing family members and pets need to be done carefully and with sensitivity to both the new CLAWbie and the existing family member(s) needs. Only once the CLAWbie is settled should you start exposing him/her to opportunities to meet and greet new faces and places, people and social experiences. Find out about local parks where you can walk your dogs (e.g. Walkhaven), dog walking groups, positive reward-based training and dog sport activities (such as Fly-ball or Agility) etc. All of these will help you build a bond based on affection, loyalty, mutual respect but above all, effective communication!
Trained: the trained CLAWbie behaves appropriately and has manners and self-control, both at home and in public What is considered "appropriate" is often thought to be subjective, but there are certain basic manners that all dogs should learn so that they become "accepted" members of our society... We need to help our CLAWbies learn manners, lifeskills and adaptive behaviours to help them adapt from shelter life and assimilate into their new family (and society at large).
Early on we need to teach our CLAWbies routines as well as some basic manners and simple commands - lifeskills that will set them up for future success and happiness in a 'forever home' as well as out and about in public.
Basic Manners and obeying simple commands:
CLAWbies need to learn basic manners and how to obey simple commands such as sit, down, stay and to come when called. In addition they need to learn to meet and greet politely (not jump-up, scratch or bowl over) , walk on a loose leash, calm down or settle etc. By teaching these simple lifeskills, we are moulding the CLAWbie into a calm, polite dog who will adapt to new boundaries and house rules and become a cherished member of your family, and socially acceptable canine member of society. Training and learning are to bolster growth and development and boost confidence and strengthen the human-canine bond! The CLAWbie will learn to trust humans and trust in him/ herself. (S)he will learn confidence and self-control by knowing his/her place and how to fit into a home environment, family unit and behave in the public/ social arena.
These are much easier to teach in a young CLAWbie, but never despair - old dogs most certain CAN learn new tricks!
Some of the most important things you can teach your CLAWbie to do through basic Training, include:
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Come when called (a reliable Recall) - this can truly be the difference between life and death (See how to train a real reliable recall)
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"Sit", lie "down" and "stand" on cue (verbal commands) (see Come, Sit Down, Stay .PDF)
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Walking at your side on a loose lead (no pulling)
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"Wait" and "Stay" (e.g. so the puppy waits until you put his leash on before jumping out of the car; or puppy stays inside the gate until you return from fetching the newspaper)
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"Settle" (learn to temper his excitement and calm down) (see Hyper Dog .pdf)
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"Take" and "Leave" (e.g. so you can ask the pup to leave the shoe he is chewing and take the rawhide bone instead) (see Destructive Chewing .PDF)
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Allow people and other pets near resources such as food and toys (see Food Guarding)
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Bite inhibition (learning to have a soft mouth and to stop play biting)
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Be sociable around different kinds of adults and children, and enjoy the social interaction and being handled (see Fear Of People .PDF)
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Polite, calm meeting and greeting (without jumping up)
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Be sociable around other dogs and other pets and species
The Best Dog Ever has 10 Basic skills considered to be fundamental to basic training including the Sit, Recall, Leash Walking, Down ,Stay, Settle, Leave, Take and boundary training (click pic below to download the summary chapter... buy the book
CLAWbies should enjoy learning and interacting with their owner.
You train your CLAWbie so that (s)he can be a well-adjusted, cherished companion that you will adore both at home and be proud to take anywhere in public. Your CLAWbie needs to learn socially acceptable behaviours... manners and how to behave politely (both at home and in public!.A well-trained dog comes when called - even when there's that tempting hot dog just at your dog's eye-level in the hand of your toddler. A well trained dog walks nicely on lead, even past the newspaper delivery-boy on his bike. The well-trained dog doesn't steal food, soil in the house, nip at visitor's heels or jump up on your guests and chew your shoes.
You should train your CLAWbie because (s)he deserves it. Socialisation and training is the only way for his/her to fulfil his/her PAWtential and become a cherished family member. Many natural canine behaviours (such as barking, chewing, digging and jumping up) are "normal" behaviours which we find "abnormal", unacceptable or undesirable (if not downright annoying).
Don't blame your dog for being a dog, rather embrace him/her for it and encourage him/her to be the BEST dog possible! Your CLAWbie doesn't want to spend his/her life in the garage or tied in the backyard, a prisoner of his/her own misbehaviour and your apathy, which will become antipathy towards him/her as (s)he misbehaves. Your CLAWbie wants to spend life hamoniously by your side. ...see more...
Learning how to train your dog will improve your life and his/ hers, enhance the bond between you, and ensure her safety—and it can be a lot of fun. Dogs are generally very eager to learn and eager to please (and earn rewards), the key to success is effective communication which in turn builds a trusting relationship. Once your CLAWbie learns the "house rules" and understands what is considered "good behaviour" and why it's in his/her best interests to oblige... (s)he will almost certainly wish to comply and win your praise!
You send your kids to school... for all the same reasons you should take your CLAWbie to school! We endeavour to increase the number of reputable puppy schools, dog trainers and behaviourists we can recommend (and especially those that promote animal welfare and adoption and offer discounts and some extra insight and understanding when schooling CLAWbies!)
DOWNLOAD this (PDF A4 z-fold) CLAWbie report card, print it out, and take it with you to training and see how you and your CLAWbie fare as STARs
Attentive: the attentive CLAWbie is aware of his/her owner and adapts well to different environments The ability to focus on you, is the first step to establishing trust and teaching him/her anything.
Getting your CLAWbie to focus on you is the first step to teachimg him or her anything. It's all about earning your CLAWbie's her trust. A simple way to do this is by using his/her name to call her to you, and then rewarding the recall. Doing this repeatedly will teach her what her name is, and also associate coming to you with pleasant things. You can also make sure you have treats handy, and each time your CLAWbie looks at your face, you reward the behaviour - soon (s)he will look at you "on command" and both look to you for guidance and look up to you, because you have earned his/her loyalty and respect because you are patient and consistent and so (s)he realizes (s)he is safe with you..An excellent benefit of teaching your CLAWbie to focus is that you are also teaching him/her to ignore distractions. (Distractions are anything that causes your CLAWbie to take his/her focus off you e.g. another animal, a kid on rollerblades or anything else that catches his/her attention).
Your goal is to help your CLAWbie be able to be actively interested in you and aware of his/her surroundings but not "REACTIVE" (an over-reaction triggered by an innocuous (ordinary or every day) stimulus or occurrence and behavioural "acting out" as a result of feeling extremely anxious or afraid of something or someone). Many of the behaviors that mark reactivity are also normal canine behaviors in certain contexts. The defining factor is whether the dog’s behavior is warranted in that situation or whether the dog is overreacting. It’s normal behavior for a dog to bark once or twice if they are startled by a loud and unusual noise or a stranger on a bicycle but it is not normal to bark hysterically each time the washing machine goes into the spin cycle or lunge at your children each time they walk past...
The importance of Sensory Stimulation:
Unfortunately growing up in a shelter environment may disadvantage rescued puppies (just as it would growing up in a home that lacks environmental and social stimulation). If they are in the sterile environment of the clinic or contained in secluded kennel runs or cages they may suffer from sensory deprivation which may disadvantage them when going out into the real world. It remains a delicate balance protecting the pups and dogs from illnesses or parasites that are likely in a clinic and treatment facility and encouraging them to participate in communal and social shelter life (interacting with staff, visitors and resident animals). CLAW tries to focus on keeping the animals "connected" and has communal enclosures to promote exposure to various stimuli and experiences. CLAW also encourages volunteers and visitors to interact with (e.g. play with, groom and walk the dogs)
Puppies need to be exposed to a variety of relevant stimuli (at an appropriate intensity, and moderately increasing levels so as not to overwhelm them) so that they get used to sudden noises such as doors slamming, household appliances and machinery operating, traffic, telephones, alarms or
doorbells ringing, thunderstorms, fireworks, gunshots, vuvuzelas, shouting, babies crying, children laughing etc. Before the age of 4 months pups acclimate quickly and accept the new stimuli, quickly adding new stimuli, experiences and situations to their repertoire.
Something that is novel or very exciting can become dull as a puppy gets used to it. The tendency for decreased responsiveness to something is called habituation. If puppies are not exposed to these stimuli and sensations in the first four months, they are more likely to react with excitement or anxiety, fear and trepidation, and may even develop behavioural problems (excessive chewing) or phobias (e.g. of fireworks or thunderstorms) which would then require behavioural remediation in the form of de-sensitisation. (A few resources to help if things go wrong).
TIP: Play my habituation MP3, a 20 minute soundtrack of everyday noises which you can play to your CLAWbie at increasing intensity (volume) and more regular intervals. TIP: Remember to REWARD calm, relaxed behaviour not fearful, needy behaviour
The importance of Handling a CLAWbie with respect and compassion:
CLAW puppies need to be be (safely and kindly) touched, handled, held and lifted frequently, by different people, to get them used to it. This is both a part of socialisation and a part of habituation (familiarising them with sensations/ stimuli and experiences) which they will have to deal with in their lives. Older CLAWbies may take more patience and time learning and accepting being handled in different ways by different people (depending on their backgrounds and early experiences). Vet checks, grooming, being lifted (for example into a car for transportation) are part of life, and something the CLAWbie must become familiar with from as possible.
Frequent (pleasant) handling, conditions the puppy to become comfortable with touch and prevents the puppy from developing handling sensitivity which may in future result in a dog reacting with fear or even aggression to being touched. Various people need to handle the puppy and games such as "Pass the pup" and Groundwork - obstacle courses of tunnels and mazes to negotiate help puppy learn body awareness and where his body begins and ends, whilst developing develop balance, agility, depth perception and confidence.
Handling (also known as "gentling") builds up the CLAWbies trust in being touched (the exact opposite of what abuse or neglect does!). Handling helps the RP get used to (and learn to relax) during vet exams, minor treatments, grooming etc. More importantly CLAWbies get to learn that human hands are great things and can be trusted not to cause harm... (even if they are doing something less enjoyable like clipping nails!) Your goal is to help your CLAWbie accept being brushed, dried off after a swim or having his/her muddy paws cleaned. You need to be able to pick up your CLAWbie, and check for ticks and fleas, pull out thorns, burrs and blackjacks, or inspect the dog's body for wounds or lumps. They need to check that the pup’s collar is not getting too tight - at CLAW we have a serious problem with having to remove embedded collars. You need to be able to clean his/her ears and brush his/her teeth. Long haired CLAWbies need to get used to being regularly bathed, brushed, cut/shaved and dried, and the (sensations and noises) of the grooming tools! All dogs need to be used to vet checks - everything from having their heart listened to, ears, and teeth checked to having a thermometer stuck up his/her anus and injections! Unfortunately, if these are not familiar things by the time the puppy is 4 months old, each grooming session or vet visit could be stressful or truamatic for the CLAWbie, the professional who is trying to help him/her (groomer/ vet staff) and of course, yourself It is essential for you to teach these life skills and coping mechanisms as early as possible - you will have a much easier time of things if you have adopted a CLAWbie during that critical period between 3 weeks and 4 months, when (s)he absorbs and accepts new stimuli and sensations like a sponge!
For some exercises and games to do with puppy. see Ian Dunbar's Training your puppy to accept handling. See Dr. Sophia Yin's Checklist for Socialization, the section on Handling). Read more about dogs who are sensitive to handling.
TIP: Often people do not pick up dogs correctly, Puppies (and dogs) do not have the same anatomy as humans (e.g. the lack of a collar bone) and one should never lift them up as one would a toddler.
Click pic below for link to details on how to pick up a puppy (or dog).
Bite Inhibition
Just as you and your family need to learn how to handle and treat the CLAWbie with kindness and respect, so too the CLAWbie has to know what is acceptable for him/her in terms of "mouthing" people.
CLAW's adoption reputation depends on quality of the animals we are homing and we do the utmost to ensure we only re-home CLAWbies who will be ambassadors not just for him/herself and CLAW, but for the adoption process in general. People who return dogs because of issues, particularly aggression, will never return to a shelter again, and will purchase their pup from a breeder to avoid getting a "reactive, unpredictable unsafe dog". There's a good chance that they will share their negative story about a dog that bit them or their child to all their friends and family, this decreasing our pool of potential adopters even more! Once a puppy or dog is returned to the shelter system and is red-flagged because of a bite or aggression issue, that animal's future is in jeopardy - the dog is considered un-adoptable and any chance of future adoption are minimal and we simply do not have the resources to rehabilitate severe behavioural problems. Also, at CLAW we can not risk 'life and limb' of staff, visitors and our other resident dogs in the communal enclosures, so an aggressive dog with a history of dog bites almost certainly faces being euthanised!
SO, one of the most critical things that needs to be taught, as a priority, is Bite Inhibition. Puppies bite... it's just what puppies are programmed to do. The puppy learns very quickly during the Socialisation period that bites can hurt and they must learn this before developing the powerful jaws and fearsome teeth as a teen. "Should a dog ever bite as an adult, both the prognosis for rehabilitation and the fate of the dog are almost always decided by the severity of the injury, which is predetermined by the level of bite inhibition the dog acquired during puppyhood. The most important survival lesson for a puppy to learn is that bites cause pain! Your puppy can only learn this lesson if he is allowed to play-bite other puppies and people, and if he receives appropriate feedback." Ian Dunbar See more... Find Out about Bite Prevention...
Relaxed: the relaxed CLAWbie is calm, friendly and alert. CLAWbies need structure and consistency in their routines as soon as they arrive at their "forever home". It makes their post-shelter life feel safe, the environmant beyond the shelter walls feel predictable, and their new adoptive parents feel trustworthy and reliable. This helps the CLAWbie feel safe and settle into his/her new home.
Routines are as important for a CLAWbies wellbeing as having other needs met - consistency and structure helps provide the CLAWbie with gives a feeling of safety, stability and well-being. Three of the most important routines we need to introduce CLAWbies to, are: feeding, potty training and crate training. Older CLAWbies or those who have lived in homes may be used to some/ all of these routines.
It is important to establish a consistent and reliable routine, which in turn will give your CLAWbie a sense of stability and security. CLAWbies need to feel safe, secure and happy and can only do so in a predictable, reliable environment with trustworthy owners who establish stable routines, boundaries and limitations! As far as possible it is imperative that you (as far as possible) keep to a feeding, potty training and crate training schedule for the well-being of the CLAWbie in your care!
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A Feeding Routine. It really is important to monitor feeding and feed on a schedule so your new CLAWbie does not develop a need to become defensive or competitive around food. Food offers training opportunities and also, if your CLAWbie is reluctant to eat, it would be an early clue (s)he may be getting sick or is very anxious. Preferably and where possible, their food should be used (i.e. hand feeding as treats) to reinforce manners, good behaviour and positive leaning. Food then becomes associated with the presence of people and of happy calm social interaction. Ideally your CLAWbie and each of your pets should be monitored and given separate bowls of good quality food (rather than a large communal bowl) at set times during the day (age dependent feeding schedule). Feeding time provides a great opportunity to practise some basic obedience and is a good time to bond - your CLAWbie learns to associate humans with food and positive experiences. It helps us prevent food guarding (and possessiveness of other resources such as toys) which could potentially become serious behavioural issues and result in food aggression. It is also very useful to use food dispensing chew toys such as the Kong ...or educational activity food dispensing toys eg Nina Ottosson toys OR get creative, and make your own. It has been shown that chew toys, and food dispensing activity toys (used as environmental enrichment, when the CLAWbie is crated) enhances the eating experience and also alleviates boredom and separation anxiety!
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Potty Training: Calmness, patience and consistency (a consistent routine) and knowing how to potty train are key. As an adoptive parent you need to realise that rescued township CLAWbies probably have learnt a substrate preference for sand rather than a lawn as the surface on which they prefer to urinate and defecate. Even CLAW pups may have not had sufficient potty training on grass (since the puppy playpen is currently situated on concrete). If you are consistent and vigilant potty training is quick and not the frustrating task so many dog owners bemoan to trainers and behaviourists! You have the added bonus that your male dogs will have been neutered and "marking" behaviour will be unlikely. It will be up to you to potty train young pups ...see more... and teach (using positive reinforcement / reward-based training) new and acceptable substrate preferences to older CLAWbies...
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Crate Training (CLAWbies often get used to cages/crates from quite a young age, but as a result of space limitations they almost always share a crate/ cage). Although crate training is less popular in South Africa than overseas. During the day, a puppy can be crated the same proportion of day as their age in months (e.g. an 8week old pup can be crated for 2 hours and a 12 week old for 3 hours during the day. The crate should be a positive and safe place/ space for the CLAWbie and never used as punishment! CLAWbies who have been in the shelter are crate trained, as they sleep in cages locked indoors at night - this is a very useful routine to continue with and reinforce - There are other benefits of crate training. At some point in your dog’s life, it may be necessary to use a crate when you are traveling with your pet or when your dog is recuperating from an injury. Such potentially traumatic situations will be much less stressful if your dog is already familiar with and comfortable in a crate. A crate can be a very useful tool with your new CLAWbie when (s)he needs a rest or "down time" or to limit access to the entire house until (s)he is potty-trained and knows the house rules. See more...
Olive was surrendered to CLAW and was so terrified and reactive no one could get near her cage... she was almost labelled unadoptable which would have meant the unthinkable... But within a few short weeks she became the Meet & Greet mascot at the front door and with training and love, has gone on to become a rel little STAR and absolutely adored family pet!!!